Step by step instructions on how to properly replace the stator plug on a GL1000, GL1100 and GL1200.  If you follow
these instructions, this will be a permanent fix.

All the pictures on this page were taken while doing these repairs to my 1975 GL1000 with a GL1100 engine.
This is how they start out looking or worse after years of running without the protection of dielectric grease.
Push the wire you are working on all the way into the plug then insert the release tool from the other side.
Then push it all the way in until it hits the stop
Now pull the wire out the back of the plug.
Quite often a terminal will be melted into the plug and you will have to cut the plug open to get it out.  Sorry,
that pic didn't turn out.
With all the wires out of the plug you can next determine if the terminals are in good enough shape to reuse.
Now it's time to release the terminals from the other plug.  Use a pointed ended probe to push the locking tab
in so the terminal can be removed.

Note:  On the stator plug the order the wires connect is not important or I would only do one side at a time.
Slide the released terminal out.
It looks even worse out than it did to start with...
This one is too melted in to be released
A a tool like this one can be used crack the old plug open like a walnut.
Now the terminal can be removed.
To preserve wire length, cut the wire off between the grip points on the old terminal.  This isn't always
necessary but if wire length is tight, ever MM of wire counts.
There's not much chance of getting a good connection from this terminals.  
This pic is a bit washed out but the end of this wire is corroded.  
If there is enough wire length, clip off the worst of the corrosion and then clean the end of the wire.  Next cut
the wires to the same length and strip the ends to for new terminals.

Also dab on a tiny amount of dielectric grease to prevent the corrosion from taking hold again before
installing new terminals
Crimp on new terminals.
This is an improvement that's hard to mis...
Coat the terminals with dielectric grease.
Be generous with the dielectric grease.
Now insert the wires into the plug,  This is one case were the wire order doesn't make a difference.
Much better looking than were this project began!
Now fill the back of the plug with dielectric grease to keep water out.
Smear some more dielectric grease around the terminals before plugging it in.
Now cut the terminals off the other side like before.
Crimp on new terminals.
Coat them with dielectric grease.
Insert the terminals into the plug and like before the order is not important.
Pack the openings in the rear of the plug with dielectric grease to keep water out.  Don't just fill the air
spaces in the back but fill the plug so that it squeezes out as you plug it in.  This way you know that there
will be not place for water and air to collect to start the corrosion process.
Plug them together and it's another project well done.  If done like this they will never corrode like in the
first picture.
                      Now on to the rectifier

My camera batteries were getting weak by the time I started repairing the rectifier plug on the
harness so this section will have a lot less pictures and maybe a bit more text.
The rectifier plug on the harness was another plug that had to be replaced.

WARNING: Before you start this project disconnect the negative cable
from the battery or you could easily short the red wires in this plug to
ground.
The pointed probe is used in this shot to push in the locking tab so the plug can
be extracted.  

This tool can be used from the other side of the terminal to push out the locking
tab on when a terminal won't stay in the plug.
Out comes the first terminal...
These last few were melted into the plug and won't come out
without cutting up the plug.
Time to crack the plug open...
A couple of these could have been wire brushed and reused but
since the rest were pretty burnt, I cut them all off.
Here it is with all new terminals.  I had to peel the harness back a little to get
some space between the wires to strip the wires and crimp on the new terminals
so I slipped on a section of heat shrink tubing that I shrunk down with a hot air
gun after the plug was installed.
Only disassemble only one side at a time so you can use the other side as a
key to get all the wires in the proper order.

Like with the stator plugs above I packed the connection with dielectric
grease to seal and protect the connection.  This connection should out last
the bike.
The next step on anybody else's bike would have been to do the plug on the rectifier next.   The stock
rectifier tested good but I find the OEM rectifier to be poorly designed and after all it's pushing 33 years
old.  So I installed one of my new OMP rectifiers.  At this point the batteries died in my camera and I had
other stuff to do so I bolted up the rectifier and quit for the day.  There will be one more pic on this page but
all other connection cleaning and repair will be on other pages on my website.
My wonderful wife came back from the grocery store with a new pack of camera
batteries so I could continue on with this project...  

Anyway this is OMP rectifier installed on my GL1000.  Notice the extra room under
the rectifier.  If this bike still had breaker point ignition, changing the condenser
would be much easier...  
You can click on thumbnails to see the full sized pictures.